Dog Breeds

It will often happen that bitch dies at the time of whelping, or has mastitis, or for some other cause cannot suckle her pups. It is important such cases that the puppies should had feed colostrums from their mother or from other bitch that had just whelped. The colostrums contain antibodies to various bacterial infections, is laxative, and rich in proteins, and vitamins. If this is not available then the puppies will have to be watched closely for the first week to see they are not constipated, and treated if necessary. In the absence of colostrums, puppies should be injected with 1 ml normal canine serum, to aim at providing some antibody protection. Canine gamma globulin can be used.
Bitch’s milk varies in composition from cow’s milk. Information bellow gives the analysis of an average of 13 investigators (Baines, 1981).

Component:
Moisture 77,2 %
Dry matter 22,8 %
Protein 8,08 %
Fat 9,76 %
Lactose 3,5 %
Ash 4,9 %
Calcium 0,28 %
Phosphorus 0,2 %
Iron 0,009 %

Calories
kcal per kg 1202
kJ per kg 5033
Ca : P ratio (1,27 : 1)


A mixture approximating this analysis by taking 225 ml of the top portion of settled unhomogenised whole milk and adding 1 egg yolk. The egg white must be used as it combines with biotin in the food and makes this essential vitamin unavailable. There are many other common recommendations, some of which are listed below.

Another mixture much recommended is fresh cow’s milk 800 ml, cream (12 % fat) 200 ml, 1 egg yolk, sterillised bone meal 6 g, citric acid 4 g, vitamin A 2000 i.u., vitamin D 500 i.u. puppies can only accommodate a small amount of milk at each feed, a maximum of 10 – 20 ml (2-4 teaspoon) at each feed. If possible, for the first day, give colostrums five times, then follow with prepared food at the rate of 1 ml per 30 g (1 oz) of puppy weight, five times in the 24 hours. This is a rough guide only and must be varied with the vigour of the young animal and with commonsense.

As a rough guide, feeds for a three-day-old puppy, roughly weighing about 200 g, would be five or six feeds a day of 2-4 ml each. For a puppy weighing 800 g at three weeks, feeds would be in the order of 50 ml each. Avoid overfeeding and consequent digestive upsets. A small nipple may be used, or administration may be carried out with an eye dropper, or a toy doll’s bottle, or a small syringe. The milk substitute can be injected slowly into the puppy. If feeding from a miniature bottle, the hole in the teat may be need to be enlarged to improve the flow so the puppy doesn’t suck air.

Food may be administered through a plastic urethral catheter and 10 ml syringe, otherwise use eye dropper or teat bottles. Eye droppers allow the puppy to suck the milk from the dropper rather than squeeze it. Dolls’ teat bottles are adequate but require a large hole in the teat. Small size babies’ teat bottles may be suitable for puppy.

Everything depends upon keeping the puppies thoroughly warm and caring for them with the proverbial ‘tender loving care’. Watch their response to the measures used, and vary according to “husbandman skill”.


References
Baines, F. M. (1981), Milk substitutes in the hand rearing of orphan puppies and kittens. J. Small Anim. Pract. 22:555-78.
Booth, R. C. (1961), Vet. Rec. 73:44:1095.
Hodgman, S. F. (1964), Canine and Feline Nutritional Requirements, Pergamon Press, p.123.
Nat. Acad. Sci., Nat. Res. Council (1962), Nutrient Requirement of Dogs, Publication No. 989. p. 3.

Feeding young puppies
Generally, puppies are weaned at about 6 weeks of age. At about 3 weeks of age encourage puppies to lap at a saucer of warm milk and to take a teaspoon of meat.
There are many proprietary foods on the pet shop or market designed for rearing puppies, e.g. Puppy cereal (Vetsera). Such food may be place in the milk for example 2 teaspoonful of cereal per saucer of milk, and fed five times daily at 6 to 10 weeks, three times daily at 10 to 16 weeks, and twice daily over 16 weeks.
Fresh meat is the natural food of dogs at all ages from 3 weeks on, and this is the way they do the best on, duly supplemented as already outlined earlier in the chapter. Strict hygiene of feeding equipment is essential.

Need To AVOID

Chocolate:
This is dangerous for dogs.

Sweet biscuits:
This is high in fat and low in nutritional value.

Grapes, Onion and Garlic:
These can be dangerous for dogs.

Raw or Cooked bones (especially cooked from meat and poultry):
Can splinter and may stick in the throat or intestine. They could also damage teeth and many cause constipation.


References:

Baines, F. M. (1981), Milk substitutes in the hand rearing of orphan puppies and kittens. J. Small Anim. Pract. 22:555-78.
Booth, R. C. (1961), Vet. Rec. 73:44:1095.
Hodgman, S. F. (1964), Canine and Feline Nutritional Requirements, Pergamon Press, p.123.
Hill's Guide Book (2008), “Caring For Your Puppy” Hill's Pet Nutrition, Inc. p. 7.
Nat. Acad. Sci., Nat. Res. Council (1962), Nutrient Requirement of Dogs, Publication No. 989. p. 3.

Now you’ve got your puppy home, then fun really begins! To make sure you get the most out of your relationship with your puppy, you’ll need to know a few basic essentials.

1.A name
Short names are easier for your puppy to recognize.

2.Identification
Every year, thousand of pets are lost, so identification is a must. Include your name and phone number on an easily readable tag. You should also consider microchip identification. You can ask your vet about this.

3.Food and Water dishes
Ceramic or stainless steel is recommended, but they must be durable and cleaned daily.

4.Grooming aids
Your vet can recommended a type of shampoo and a good nail clipper.

5.Bedding
This should be washable. The first few nights, your new puppy might be lonely or afraid. A radio played guilty or ticking clock can help soothe your puppy to sleep.

6.Toys
Chew toys can help prevent your new puppy from deciding your furniture looks good enough to eat. Be careful not to give then toys that look like items that you don’t want them to chew e.g. shoe. Balls and knotted ropes are also great.

7.Pet carrier
It’s a good idea to have one so your puppy feels safe when being transported in the car. They can be a place for your puppy to sleep and provide a safe, quiet haven for your pet. Allow room for your puppy to grow.

8.Puppy proofing your home
When deciding where you want your puppy to sleep, take into account those areas of the house or garden that are going to be out of bounds. Put the kitchen rubbish out of harm’s way or high enough to be out of your puppy’s reach.


Source:
Hill's Guide Book (2008), “Caring For Your Puppy” by Hill's Pet Nutition, Inc.

Early behavioral development of the dog can be divided into four stages: the neonatal period, transitional period, socialization period, and juvenile period.

Neonatal Period (Birth to 14 days)
New born puppies are unable to see or hear, because their eyes are not open and their ears are not functioning yet. They are unable to regulate internal body temperature and so must depend on an outside source of warmth. Tactile stimulation by the mother is necessary for the stimulation of urination or defecation. The rooting reflex is triggered by maternal licking and is characterized by a “swimming” motion with the front legs at the bags legs push forward toward the warmth stimulus.
Needs To Do:
1.Prepared a bedding places and whelping box. The ideal place is a quiet corner without passing traffic, warmth and away from where the children play. Almost universally the basic bedding for a whelping box is newspaper, so start saving it up in advance.
2.No need supplementary feeding, just their dam’s milk, and should spend most of their time sleeping quietly. If they do not. Seek help urgently.
3.With a large litter it would be wise to make sure all the puppies get their share. Any puppies that do not get their share may be bottle fed successfully with a suitable bitch-milk substitute.


Transitional Period (14 to 21 days)
This is primarily due to maturation of the sensory organs and neurological system. This period is typically designated as beginning with the opening of the eyes at about 12 to 14 days, and ending about 1 week later when the ear canals open, and puppies show their first auditory “startle” response. Puppies begin to stand and walk, trying to get out of the nest box and show an interest in solid food.
Needs To Do:
1.Exposing puppies to normal household sounds, smells, and sights, daily handling, petting, and gentle brushing are all advantageous during this stage.
2.At three weeks of age the litter must have its first worming dose. Take advice on this. Modern wormers cause no side effects.
3.It is important to continue picking up the pups daily, admire them, talk to them, and spend a few minutes with each one individually. It may also be the time to start to supplement their diet. This is done by hand-feeding.


Socialization periods (3 to 12 weeks)
Primary socialization periods (3 to 5 weeks):
The primary socialization period is the most important period of social development for the young dog. The represents a time of very rapid behavioral change and specifically includes the development of species-specific social behaviors. These changes signify that the puppy is now capable of perceiving and reacting to its environment in the same manner as an adult dog.
A rapid increase in activity and the appearance of increasingly complex behaviors are seen in the early part of primary socialization. When puppies are between 3 and 5 weeks of age, exploratory behaviors increase dramatically. Puppies investigate the whelping area, and begin to play with each other and with their mother. Puppies are highly responsive to stimuli that are presented within their environment, to opportunities to form attachment to other puppies, humans, and other companion animals.
Needs To Do:
1.It is essential that the puppy remain with their litter and the mother.
2.A stable environment is crucial, radical changes in the environment must be avoided, for example do not move their whelping box.
3.A mild auditory stimuli is introduced, such as a radio playing quietly.

Secondary socialization periods (6 to 12 weeks):
This period is especially important for the development of a stable emotional temperament and affective tone. Many social and emotional deficits observed in adult dogs are believed to result from removing puppies too early from the mother and litter mates. By six weeks puppies should be completely weaned, although the dam may take some convincing of this, and may keep trying to feed the pups.
Needs To Do:
1.The puppies should be feeding on a puppy food of your choice. It also time for a second worming dose to be given.
2.The action of sucking by the puppies prolongs the production of milk by the dam, and after six weeks this should be discouraged.

Human Socialization (7 to 12 weeks):
This is the age when most rapid learning occurs. Greatest impact on future social behavior will be made by any experience that happens at this point. Because puppies need to be with their litter mates during the first part of primary socialization and because socialization to human and to new places and situations is important during the latter half, placement in new homes is best accomplished when puppies are between 7 and 9 weeks of age.
Needs To Do:
1.Ideal time to capitalize on educating your puppy.
2.See another article “Bringing your puppy home”.

Fear imprint periods (8 to 10 weeks):
Puppies show the highest level of curiosity and lowest level of hesitancy or fear of new stimuli when they are between 3 and 5 weeks of age. After 5 weeks, they gradually begin to show some uncertainty of new people, object, and situation. This change reaches culmination at about 8 and 10 weeks of age, a period that is referred to as “fear imprint”. Puppies vary greatly in the degree to which they demonstrate uncertainty or decreased confidence. While some become quiet sensitive and even fearful toward new stimuli, others show little of these sign. Experiences a puppy perceives as traumatic during this time are generalized and may affect them all their life. Anything that frightens the puppy during this period will have a more lasting effect than if it occurred at any other periods.
Needs To Do:
1.Puppies are usually in their new home during fear imprint, care should be taken not to expose puppies to any traumatic event during this time period.
2.Keep training fun. Use short session, and keep all training positive. Gentle guidance and management are essential. Set your puppy to succeed.


Juvenile periods (4 to 12 months)
The juvenile period extend from the end of socialization period to sexual maturity. This is a period of refining existing capabilities and increasing coordination as the dog matures physically. Motors skills become more coordinated and adult-like, and attention span gradually increases. The dog’s permanent teeth begin to replace the deciduous teeth at about 4 to 5 month of age and are usually fully erupted by 6 month of age.
Sexually related behaviors develop with the onset of puberty. Female dogs become sexually mature between 6 and 16 month, depending on size and breed. Male dog generally reach sexual maturity when they are 10 to 12 months of age. Although dogs are reproductively mature by the time they are 1 year of age, social behaviors continue to develop and change until dogs are 18 months or older.

Flight instinct period (4 to 8 months):
This stage can last from a few days to several weeks and can occur anytime during this period. Puppy will be uncomfortable because adult teeth are growing in. Puppy may challenge you in attempt to resolve the question of leadership. Puppy may not come when called and may not play fetch even though they once did.
Needs To Do:
1.Be prepared with appropriate chew bones (large enough so that the pup will not choke) to help with your pup’s need to chew.
2.Use a long line in the park if your puppy is not coming when called.

Second fear period (6 to 12 months):
Many puppies will show a rise in their level of aggression (reactivity) during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to dominate owners. Puppy coat being replaced by adult coat and begins to mature sexually. Puppies may suddenly be apprehensive about new things or shy or timid of new people or situations.
Needs To Do:
1.Build confidence trough training.
2.If your puppy appears apprehensive, avoid confrontation.
3.Avoid any potentially overwhelming circumstances you cannot personally oversee, such as shipping your pup in the cargo by of an airplane.


Maturity (1 to 4 years)
“Maturity” refers to sexual maturity as opposed to being full-grown. Smaller dogs mature earlier, larger dogs later. If you were lax in periods earlier on, you may now see the things you have missed: object guarding, unfavorable reactions towards unfamiliar people, animals, or thing that your dog missed during the socialization stage.
Needs To Do:
1.Dog still needs to meet and greet people, go places with you, and continue to share your world and your experience.
2.You will know when your dog can be trusted by testing them for short periods (10-15 minutes) while you leave the house. If your dog is damaging property while loose, they are not ready.


Information gleaned from:
“How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With”, Claire Rutherford & David H. Neil
"It Takes a Pack to Raise a Puppy", article by Suzanne Clothier
“The Dog (Its Behavior, Nutrition & Health)”, Linda P. Case
“The Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training”, Steven R. Lindsay
“The Ultimate Encyclopedia of Dogs, Dog Breeds & Dog Care”, Dr. Peter Larkin